ANTARCTICA ADVENTURE:
Expeditions and cruises aboard our specially built yachts give a much
better viewpoint as they can get in much closer and can visit many more
places than large cruise ships. They are very suitable for sailing
expeditions in extreme environments. These are not "luxury" yachts and
do not have a lot of varnish work, veneer bulkheads, high tech
electronics and luxurious equipment. Our philosophy is simplicity. If
we can keep the boat without frills, we have more time to enjoy the
voyage.
Our yachts are fully equipped for comfort and are dry and warm below.
They have good bunks with an ample head, hot water shower and a good
selection of music and libraries. Our well qualified Captains have made
numerous voyages to Antarctica, Cape Horn
and South
Georgia.
These boats sail from October until March. You may see photos and specs
on some of these specially built boats below. We aren't reckless
adventurers.
Many sailboats have gone to Antarctica in the last 30 years. Judging
from
the rising number of tourists in recent years, there is an increasing
interest
in this remote white continent. The numbers are not just a reflection
of
popular interest, but also indicate the increased number of
possibilities
to actually visit the continent. Thus, the end of the cold war
coincidentally
left several vessels for "scientific research" decommissioned,
rendering
them available for use in the tourism industry. Tierra Del Fuego has
been
enjoying larger number of visitors for some time now. For a journey to
the
eternal ice may still have an unreal and dangerous ring to it. Fact is
however
that on average 35 yachts visit the area every year, and that some of
these
decide to spend the winter there as well for the fun of it; all in all
clear
indications that it isn't all that dangerous as it might sound. Ever
since
the first yacht of our generation sailed these waters in 1966,
disregarding
a few bent mast and bumpy landings, no serious accidents have occurred
during
these summer trips. Also we must admit that the type of charter we are
presenting
is not new: for the last few years several Frenchmen, Germans, Dutch
and
American yachts have been operating similar charter trips from Ushuaia
and
Puerto Williams. Time and again they sail with their fully booked
yachts
with their compatriots around Cape Horn and to Antarctica. So much for
the
better: it is the best indication for us that with the proper
organization
(marketing and a perfect ship, etc.) these charter trips work. We can
confidently
ask: what are we waiting for?
THE SAILING COMPANIONS
In 1787 Captain William Bligh
with the "Bounty" tried for 29 days in vain to round
the cape. Eventually he had no choice but to take the
much longer route via Cape of Good Hope to eventually
reach Polynesia. Those who want to visit Antarctica or
Cape Horn will have to muster a certain amount of
courage and determination, since the only way one can
travel in these areas is by boat. In this there is a
choice of two: by cruise ship or on a yacht. On cruise
ships, a passenger is largely insulated from the rather
changeable climate of this area.
At fixed times he will
be read his lectures, will briefly stand bunched with
149 other passengers amidst the penguins and try to
take award winning pictures of unspoiled nature, and
will otherwise enjoy the luxury of the ship. On a
sailing yacht this is all quite different. It is an individual trip
with a maximum of 8 guests, who's
personal interests will determine the course of the
trip. Thus, together with a traveling companion, a hike
can be made to the beaver dams on Isla Navarino, or
with a qualified guide one can climb glaciers on
Antarctica.
As far as the sailing is concerned: every
passenger is part of the crew, and together we will
round Cape Horn or sail to Antarctica: everyone takes
part in the effort. It was in 1616 that the Dutch
seafarers Jaques Le Maire and Willem Schouten on board
the "Eendracht" and "Hoorn" had left their home port of
Hoorn to explore for King and Country new passages and
unknown lands. At Puerto Deseado one ship was lost to
fire, while the crew was scraping the old tar from its
hull, so they had to continue their voyage on one ship.
They endeavored to sail South of the place by that time
already known strait of Magellan, and thus discovered
the narrow passage to the west, and that mysterious
cape which they named after the ship they had lost.
Scott leaves for the South Pole on December 24, 1911.
The motor sledges soon break down, and the ponies that
many experts had advised against using, soon perish in
this inhospitable climate. Under unspeakable conditions
Scott, Evans, Bowers, Oates, and Wilson claw their way
up the Beardmore glacier towards the Antarctic plateau.
What utter disappointment it must have been for the
group to see on January 17 the tent of Amundsen already
standing at the South Pole. We know they didn't make it
back. This region, heavy with the spirit and the
heroism of exploration and adventure, to this day has a
strong attraction, since the physical conditions of the
region remain unchanged. It is exactly for this reason
that it is exciting to compare one's own experiences
and determination with that of the stories of bygone
days. You will feel that you have actually taken part
in a sailing adventure in these historic waters.
ACTIVITIES:
Without waking the sleepers, three members
of the crew prepare to go and view the beavers at first
light. Outside it's still dark, but those who want to
see the beavers at work have to get up early. While the
three early birds pack the freshly baked bread, I fill
the thermos with hot coffee. When you spend hours on
the lookout for beavers, that is what you need. A
sleepy head peaks around the corner, hesitates, but
then decides to join the party after all. I am outside,
and give some advice as to the best route to take. Down
here in Southern Patagonia you won't find any walking
tracks, let alone National Trust direction signs. After
walking a few hundred yards I turn and watch our boat,
peacefully and safe on its anchor.
It is a windless
night, absolutely still, and the moon casts a final
glow over the Beagle Channel. In my thoughts I see the
faces of the ones who stay behind. I can hardly
suppress a giggle when I think of last night. They surely deserve their
rest. Logbook entry, 03:15. Susan
gently taps the barometer and registers it is slowly
falling. After having written these data, together with
log and bearing in the logbook, she checks the
temperature of the sea water. A temperature of 2
degrees C or less indicates the possible presence of
icebergs. Susan lights the fire under the kettle, so
she can send the watch a bit stiff because of the cold
to bed with a cup of hot coffee. She sticks her head
out of the hatch to chat a bit with Kevin.
Although the
ship can comfortably be left on its own, it is hard to
get Kevin to come below deck. He tells without a pause
of the sea and the ship. As a giant pen drawing a
graciously flowing line, the ship leaves a
phosphorescent trail of a million sparks on the black
sea. Kevin describes how 45 minutes ago a group of
dolphins made the bow of the ship the center of their
playground. The main object is of course to experience
and enjoy nature, to know how to deal with it and above
all to respect it, not just in order to preserve it,
but also because at times the elements can still be our
masters. We are convinced that our guests will
experience this in a more intense way, when they
actually take active part in it.
WEATHER
Tactical and weather related decisions are
discussed by the entire crew, and all have their say.
The final responsibility for ship and crew remains
however with the skipper, and thus he will of course
have the final word. Whenever we are close to land, we
will undertake half or full day excursions. While
sailing, the crew will be organized into watches of
about 2 hours. Tasks will be divided according to the
varying interests. Those who know something about
charts, can plot a course one day, but also when the
work is getting a bit cold or wet, everyone is expected
to pull their weight. When the mainsail needs reefing,
the skipper will need to helpers. Of course, lifelines
are worn at all times during work on deck. To drop the
anchor, it is best to be three.
Leopard seals think a
rubber dinghy is a wonderful toy and love to nibble on
them, so if you want to keep your dinghy, it will have
to be hoisted on deck every time after use. And...no
one will have to restrain their culinary urges; ever
baked bread at a 20 degree list? Our expeditions are a
concept rather than simple sailing cruises. They are designed and built
specifically to operate in remote
areas on long expeditions. They are suited to operate
comfortably and efficiently in one of the most hostile
environments. Built of steel or aluminum they are tough
and able to cope with ice abrasion and beaching. Not
like glass fiber or wood which require special
equipment or a controlled environment, they may be
repaired anywhere. Many have retractable keels and
rudders that allows them to moor in natural harbors
that are not navigable by deep drafted vessels. The
capacity of these yachts to get behind barrier rocks
and moor to the shore in shallow water, makes them safe
from drift ice and secure against high winds and sea.
.
EXPEDITIONS
We think of our voyages in terms of
"expeditions" rather than "charter cruising".
"Chartering" give visions of tonic and rum with the
sunsets, inactivity and the waiting on at the beck and
call of the passengers by a professional crew. Our aim
is give our passengers, who are the crew, a sense of
participation and self worth in all of the operations
of a small vessel in these very remote areas. The
yachts generally have a mate/cook, so meals are
prepared. But all are encouraged to try their luck in
the galley. Washing dishes after meals is taken by
turns and above deck everyone is expected to
participate by steering, handling the sails and helping
to launch and putting the dinghy on board. No previous
nautical experience is required, and for those who
would like to learn something new we are happy to
oblige.
ANTARCTIC PENINSULA EXPEDITION 2002/2003
This voyage is for a
minimum of 28 days. It will be aboard the specially
built yachts listed below. We can accommodate up to six
to ten guests depending on how many couples there are.
We are interested in finding passengers who have the
goals of sailing, wildlife projects, ecological
projects, filming and geological projects. But, we can
take groups with interests in tourism in general.
PLACE OF DEPARTURE FOR ANTARCTIC VOYAGE
Crew members meet in Puerto Williams, Chile, the
world's most
southern town or in close-by Ushuaia, Argentina. From
there we sail east on the Beagle Channel by Picton and
Lennox islands to the Wollastan Archipelago then
directly south across the Drake Passage via Cape Horn
which usually takes between five and six days. We
should have a full two weeks on the Antarctic Peninsula
and we may sail as far south as the Antarctic Circle.
WHALES
Watching Humpback whales is always a main
attraction of Antarctic voyages. We navigate on the
western side of the Peninsula mainly in sheltered
waters among the numerous islands. Our shore activities
are done with the tranquillity which is found by having
good anchorages.
GOALS
The goals that may be accomplished in the Antarctic
are dependent upon the
irregularities of the weather and ice conditions each
season. About 50% of the time is spent waiting at
anchor for the weather.
SEASON FOR ANTARCTICA
December to March is the best time for expeditions to
Antarctica
by yacht because of the ice conditions. By plane the
season extends from October through April.
THE CLIMATE
The Drake Passage is the only interruption between the
southern mountain ranges of the Andes, and its natural
adversary, the Antarctic Peninsula, where steep
mountains rise out of the icy waters like a giant
dinosaur. Although at the Cape Horn the average wind
speed is not higher than at for instance Plymouth, it
is still CLEAR to everyone what made this cape so
infamous. The winds and weather systems reaching the
areas from the west can do so unhindered. None of the
other continents extends farther south than 40 degrees
South, while Cape Horn is located at 56_degrees South.
thus, unobstructed by landmasses, low can chase each
other around the world. When they hurl themselves on
the Andes mountain range, and find they can't pass this
2.5 mile high obstacle, they will press south and
squeeze through the Drake Passage. Because of this
geological situation, a curious weather exists: 3 days
of gales are often followed by 45 days of windless
weather.
Likewise it is possible that it is a bit windy
with 60 knots at Cape Horn, while at Puerto Toro at 25
miles distance there is no wind at all (or vice versa).
Around the Beagle Channel a mild maritime climate
prevails. In summer average temperature during the day
is 11 degrees C. Yearly precipitation is on average 75
mm. The channel never freezes in winter, and there are
no icebergs (except in the immediate vicinity of
glaciers). The Antarctic Peninsula is situated south of
where the depressions rage through the Drake Passage
and remains largely unaffected by their high winds. The
winds are therefore gentle, often from the east. During
summer one can expect to enjoy long periods of calm
with lots of sunshine. The annual average precipitation
is around 50 mm, whilst temperatures vary around 5
degrees C.
NAVIGATION
In the old days of sail, the
windjammers had no choice but to round the cape,
irrespective of the season or weather conditions. Due
to the primitive navigation instruments, lack of
precise charts and limited maneuverability of the
vessels, it was impossible to safely seek the
protection of the land against the high winds. It was
therefore necessary to give the dangerous coast a wide
berth, which meant the ships often had to spend
extended periods of time out at sea.This of course
increased again the chance of running into bad weather
and encountering problems. All this is different
nowadays. Modern satellite navigation and weather
forecasts, daily radio contact with other ships and the
Chilean Navy have greatly enhanced safety while
A SAILING TRIP TO THE END OF THE WORLD
Logbook entry of the "Sarah" 20:15.
'Bettina, can you imagine, on our way from the Gamma
Islands a Minke whale swam a circled around us at
barely 40 yards distance." John and Mary are just
returning in the dinghy from their first Antarctic
adventure. Thousands of penguin couples, together with
their offspring, are all squealing as if their very
lives depend on it. The sun is low on the horizon and
casts a carpet of colors over this strange and
wonderful ice paradise. Outside temperature is 2
degrees C , there's no wind and the silence and
loneliness are perfect. We are anchored in a small
inlet of Paradise Bay, a thousand miles from
civilization, surrounded by a landscape of unending
glaciers and icebergs. '
ANTARCTICA, IS THAT PERMISSIBLE?
Antarctica is the only continent left that
is largely untouched by man. This is mainly due to the
extreme climatological conditions, in which during
millennia of isolation the animal and plant world were
allowed to adapt to the adverse conditions. Essential
condition for this precarious survival is however that
the biological chain is not broken. Since it is
extremely difficult for living beings to survive in
such a harsh climate, the biological chain has remained
small and each link is closely dependent on the others.
Because of this the flora and fauna of Antarctica is in
a state of only frail stability. All human activity
should for these reasons be regarded critically, as it
might disrupt this fragile chain. Fortunately a treaty
for the protection of Antarctica was signed in 1991 by
almost all countries the world, limiting human
interference in this delicate environment.
By way of international conventions 100 locations were
designated
as protected areas (SPA, SPS, SSSI) in order to protect
their biological, scientific or historical values.
Because of it, visitors now know how to conduct
themselves, thus limiting the negative effects of their
interference. On the basis of scientific data, and of
the talks we had with station personnel, we have come
to the conclusion that the form of tourism we propose
does not have any noticeable detrimental effects on the
natural life of Antarctica. Provided is of course that
everyone sticks to the rules. One of those rules is
that what you bring in, you will also bring out again.
Furthermore, we will take garbage (such as used engine
oil) of defunct stations with us on our way back to the
American continent. In this way we can contribute a bit
to keep this continent clean.
**Antarctic whales, Antarctic landscapes
and lots of information Antarctic scientific investigation, Wintering
stations**
"Penguin colony not disturbed"
by Kerry
S.Smith, Washington D.C.: