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Antarctica Leg A: Sailing Expeditions to Antarctica, Cape Horn, South Georgia, Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, Falkland Islands with the 53 ft steel sailingyacht Sarah W. VorwerkExplore Antarctica, South Georgia, Falkland Islands, Cape Horn, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia ! With our 53 ft. steel sailingyacht Sarah W. Vorwerk we provide profound knowledge and logistics for:ocean sailing, sailing adventure, sailing expeditions, whale-watching, ornithologists, film, hiking, climbing, trekking, kayaking, scuba-diving, ice-diving. Come and see antarctica, cape horn, glaciers, icebergs, fjords, waterfalls, guanacos, albatross, penguins, whales, humpback whales.
S/Y „SARAH W. VORWERK“ - LEG A
USHUAIA - CAPE HORN - ANTARCTICA - USHUAIA
(4 weeks)
1. DAY USHUAIA (54°56'S / 68°06'W)
Beautiful view from the plane across the Beagle Channel and glaciers - we pick you up from the airport by dinghy - you choose your bunk and get familiar with the boat - last big shoppings for 4 weeks - sailing across the Beagle Channel - we pass ‘Isla dos Lobos’: Sea Lions and Cormorants.
2. DAY PUERTO WILLIAMS (54°56'S / 67°36'W)
We anchor at ‘Seno Lauro’, the best natural harbour of this region - the wreck of the ‘Micalvi’ is our jetty and provides at the same time all harbour facilities: pub and shower - here are a handful of boats tied off already, getting ready for Antarctica or just coming down from the Chilean Channels - Yamana Indians - Martin Gusinde Museum - last shower at Micalvi
3. DAY PUERTO TORO (55°05'S / 67°06'W)
Laid back Puerto Williams - 1200 inhabitants - high military presence but totally out of date - no private telephone lines - sailing the Beagle Channel - Puerto Toro: most southern settlement of the world - 50 inhabitants - dealing one bottle of whisky for a couple of buckets full of King Crabs - detailed weather analysis for the right moment to cross the Drake.
4.-7. DAY DRAKE PASSAGE
It can get tough - Albatross and Cape Pigeon join the ‘Sarah’ - daily radio contact with the other yachts and Antarctic weather stations - reaching the Antarctic convergence zone: polar waters with greenish colour and lots of life - who sees the first iceberg? - continuous watch for growlers and icebergs
8.-9. DAY MELCHIOR ISLANDS (64°20S / 630°00W )
We have made it - we arrive at Antarctica: the coldest, the loneliest, the driest, the most isolated, the most peaceful of all continents, only 2% are not covered by ice - mountain ranges reach 2000 metres - Fur Seal colony - Sea Leopards on floating iceshells - flashing white of the icebergs and crystal-blue polar water.
10. DAY FALSE BAY
Adelie-, Gentoo- and Chinstrappenguins - they can dive up to 300 metres deep and swim up to 36 km/hour - Crabeater Seals - navigation gets different because we cannot see the real coastlines of the islands, so chart navigation is difficult.
11. - 12. DAY PARADISE BAY (64°55S / 63°00W)
Big chance to see whales: Minky and Humpback Whales - they often come close to the boat - Chilean station Videla is abandoned, the penguins have won their territory back - Cormorant colonies - Gentoo colonies - dinghy trips - incredible scenery
13. DAY PETERMAN ISLAND (65°10S / 64°05W)
LeMaire Channel: very narrow channel with 1000 metre high stone walls, sometimes a huge iceberg gets stuck in the middle of the channel - Peterman Island: many Sea Leopards and Sea Elephants.
14. DAY VERNADSKY STATION (65°15S / 64°15W)
The passage to Vernadsky is not charted, therefore we put the dinghy in front of the ‘Sarah’ and look for a safe passage - Vernadsky (Ukraine): 15 men in summer, 10 during the winter, former English station, station members get a supply ship twice a year only - we bring eggs and cheese from Chile - sauna, pub, discussions.
15.-16. DAY PORT LOCKROY (64°55S / 63°30W)
We head north to one of the best anchorages of Antarctica - good chance to meet another yacht or cruise ship - at the English station we can post our polar post - good opportunity to get up the glacier with our snow shoes.
17. DAY PALMER STATION (64°45S / 64°00'W)
If we are lucky we get permission to visit the American base - totally different set-up: thorough biology research - we could even phone back home - American atmosphere.
18. DAY GERLACHE STRAIT
We should see Humpback Whales: they are inquisitive and could easily stay for 1¦2 hour with us, we get the dinghy in the water, they approach us and come very close, they dive below the ‘’Sarah’ and play.
19. DAY ENTERPRISE ISLAND (64°20'S / 61°10'W)
‘Antarctic Marina’: a wrecked whaling boat is our jetty - from the nearby waterfall we tap water and fill up our tanks.
20. DAY GAMMA ISLAND (64°20S / 630°00W )
Last opportunity for extensive dinghy tours - preparation for the Drake - if the group wishes and the weather allows it we can make a detour to Deception Island: the island is vulcanic, big parts are covered by black lava sand - ruins of an abandoned whaling station.
21.-24. DAY DRAKE PASSAGE
We should see the passage with different eyes now; its all that much more familiar - sea birds accompany us again - we head for Cape Horn
25. DAY CAPE HORN (55°50'S / 67°18'W)
„The classic aspect of Cape Horn is the cliff face to the southern headland. Well below its summit, the old lighthouse I saw burning back in 1977, still stands, but shines no more below the clouds. On exposed rocks, a mile offshore, the sea breaks heavily even on a calm day, as the rollers coming in from the Southern Ocean pile up on shelf water, 75 miles away to the south-west.“ (Skip Novak: ‘Cape Horn cloaked in mystery’)
Cape of the ultimate challenge - many destinies and catastrophes have taken place here - symbol for the end of the world. - visit to the island: Chilean navy control post - passport stamps and post - chapel - monument - wildlife - deep tussock grass.
26. DAY ROUNDING OF CAPE HORN
Sail around Cape Horn - excursion to other islands of the Wollaston group - anchor at Bahia Scourfield.
27. DAY PUERTO WILLIAMS (54°56'S / 67°36'W)
Back to civilisation after 4 weeks of near isolation - showers and shoppings - trekking - we pick up our Cape Horn certificates from the navy post.
28. DAY USHUAIA (54°56'S / 68°06'W)
Last sail across the Beagle - fresh bread and cheese - transport by dinghy to the airport.
Henk is dutch, speaks English,
Portugese, German, Spanish, Dutch and was
born 1962. Since childhood sailing has
played a dominant role in his life.
After having worked for 6 years as a
photographer in Amsterdam, he went on a
sailing trip for two years and decided
to give his nautical life a permanent
footing. The southern latitudes of
America with it's attraction of the
extreme isolation and the beauty of
unspoiled nature made this decision
easy. Since 1995 Henk sails twice a year
to Antarctica, does several legs around
Cape Horn and sails about every two
years to South- Georgia and the
Falklands. The following countries are
well known to him from former sailing
trips: England, Portugal, Marokko,
Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verds, Azores,
Senegal, Gambia, Guinee Bissau, St.
Helena, South-Afrike, Brazil, Uruguay,
Argentina, Chile.
Sarah W. Vorwerk was one of the first
women who in 1850, accompanied her
husband ( a ship owner who traded guano
with Chile) on various sailing trips
around Cape Horn.
THE SHIP
It concerns a Skorpion IV, a 53 ft. steel yacht with ample space to accommodate a crew of 10. For the somewhat heavier expeditions we take a maximum of 6 guests. For these six guests there are three equal two bunk cabins, with lots of storage space and bedside lamp.
The boat was build in 1988 at the Feltz shipyard in Hamburg, a boat builder with a long reputation for building sturdy and reliable ships. Apart from numerous certificates with which it was issued, the well planned technical installation is clear evidence of the quality of the ship.
For communication a SSB radio is available, not only covering marine bands, but for amateur (ham) frequencies.
A satellite communication, InmarsatC, ensures permanent contact with family at home.
Practicality and coziness of the interior layout have been given preference over the use of expensive materials. Since the crew will be organized in watches during the longer trips, the social life on board will largely take place in the salon at the back of the ship. Separated from the salon are the sleeping quarters, where part of the crew can retire to enjoy their well earned rest. Two toilets, a shower and a generous supply of hot water are essential to ensure the necessary comfort for all, and a good spirit on board. One has to take into account the outside temperature, and the possibility of an unexpected salt water shower of 2 degrees C at times. As fresh water can't be brought along in unlimited quantities, but we do intend to undertake longer voyages, a water maker has been installed to ensure a permanent supply of fresh water. The ship's central heating system is designed to work day and night in order to avoid condensation, and ensure ample possibility to dry oilskins, clothing and boots.
Further detailed information about the equipment on board (unfortunately in german): list of equipment
THE SAILING COMPANIONS
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In 1787 Captain William Bligh with the "Bounty" tried for 29 days in vain to round the cape. Eventually he had no choice but to take the much longer route via Cape of Good Hope to eventually reach Polynesia.
Those who want to visit Antarctica or Cape Horn will have to muster a certain amount of courage and determination, since the only way one can travel in these areas is by boat. In this there is a choice of two: by cruise ship or on a yacht.
On cruise ships, a passenger is largely insulated from the rather changeable climate of this area. At fixed times he will be read his lectures, will briefly stand bunched with 149 other passengers amidst the penguins and try to take award winning pictures of unspoiled nature, and will otherwise enjoy the luxury of the ship.
On a sailing yacht this is all quite different. It is an individual trip with a maximum of 8 guests, who's personal interests will determine the course of the trip. Thus, together with a traveling companion, a hike can be made to the beaver dams on Isla Navarino, or with a qualified guide one can climb glaciers on Antarctica. As far as the sailing is concerned: every passenger is part of the crew, and together we will round Cape Horn or sail to Antarctica: everyone takes part in the effort.
It was in 1616 that the Dutch seafarers Jaques Le Maire and Willem Schouten on board the "Eendracht" and "Hoorn" had left their home port of Hoorn to explore for King and Country new passages and unknown lands. At Puerto Deseado one ship was lost to fire, while the crew was scraping the old tar from its hull, so they had to continue their voyage on one ship. They endeavored to sail south of the by that time already known strait of Magellan, and thus discovered the narrow passage to the west, and that mysterious cape which they named after the ship they had lost.
Scott leaves for the South Pole on December 24, 1911. The motor sledges soon break down, and the ponies that many experts had advised against using, soon perish in this inhospitable climate. Under unspeakable conditions Scott, Evans, Bowers, Oates, and Wilson claw their way up the Beardmore glacier towards the Antarctic plateau. What utter disappointment it must have been for the group to see on January 17 the tent of Amundsen already standing at the South Pole. We know they didn't make it back.
This region, heavy with the spirit and the heroism of exploration and adventure, to this day has a strong attraction, since the physical conditions of the region remain unchanged. It is exactly for this reason that it is exciting to compare one's own experiences and determination with that of the stories of bygone days. You will feel that you have actually taken part in a sailing adventure in these historic waters.
ACTIVITIES
Logbook entry, December 10, 05:00. Without waking the sleepers, three members of the crew prepare to go and view the beavers at first light. Outside it's still dark, but those who want to see the beavers at work have to get up early. While the three early birds pack the freshly baked bread, I fill the thermos with hot coffee. When you spend hours on the lookout for beavers, that is what you need.
A sleepy head peaks around the corner, hesitates, but then decides to join the party after all. I am outside, and give some advice as to the best route to take. Down here in Southern Patagonia you won't find any walking tracks, let alone National Trust direction signs. After walking a few hundred yards I turn and watch our boat, peacefully and safe on its anchor. It is a windless night, absolutely still, and the moon casts a final glow over the Beagle Channel. In my thoughts I see the faces of the ones who stay behind. I can hardly suppress a giggle when I think of last night. They surely deserve their rest.
In view of the inhospitable nature of these areas, all activities will be undertaken with two or more persons.
* Sailing.
* Visit to the Cape Horn memorial stone and the coast guard station on Isla Hornos.
* Certificate of the Chilean Navy: Rounding Cape Horn.
* Visit to scientific research stations on Antarctica.
* Tours with dinghies.
* Trekking and hiking.
* Mountaineering and ice climbing on glaciers under qualified guidance.
* Ice diving (Scuba)
* Observation of rare plants and animals.
LIFE ON BOARD
Logbook entry, 03:15. Susan gently taps the barometer and registers it is slowly falling. After having written these data, together with log and bearing in the logbook, she ca pause of the sea and the ship. As a giant pen drawing a graciously flowing line, the ship leaves a phosphorescent trail of a million sparks on the black sea. Kevin describes how 45 minutes ago a group of dolphins made the bow of the ship the centre of their playground.
The main object is of course to experience and enjoy nature, to know how to deal with it and above all to respect it, not just in order to preserve it, but also because at times the elements can still be our masters. We are convinced that our guests will experience this in a more intense way, when they actually take active part in it. No previous nautical experience is required, and for those who would like to learn something new we are happy to oblige. Tactical and weather related decisions are discussed by the entire crew, and all have their say. The final responsibility for ship and crew remains however with the skipper, and thus he will of course have the final word.
Whenever we are close to land, we will undertake half or full day excursions. While sailing, the crew will be organized into watches of about 2 hours. Tasks will be divided according to the varying interests. Those who know something about charts, can plot a course one day, but also when the work is getting a bit cold or wet, everyone is expected to pull their weight. When the mainsail needs reefing, the skipper will need to helpers. Of course, lifelines are worn at all times during work on deck. To drop the anchor, it is best to be three. Leopard seals think a rubber dinghy is a wonderful toy and love to nibble on them, so if you want to keep your dinghy, it will have to be hoisted on deck every time after use. And...no one will have to restrain their culinary urges; ever baked bread at a 20 degree list?
THE CLIMATE
The Drake Passage is the only interruption between the southern mountain ranges of the Andes, and its natural adversary, the Antarctic Peninsula, were steep mountains rise out of the icy waters like a giant dinosaur.
Although at the Cape Horn the average wind speed is not higher than at for instance Plymouth, it is still clear to everyone what made this cape so infamous. The winds and weather systems reaching the areas from the west can do so unhindered. None of the other continents extends farther south than 40 degrees South, while Cape Horn is located at 56degrees South. thus, unobstructed by landmasses, lows can chase each other around the world. When they hurl themselves on the Andes mountain range, and find they can't pass this 2.5 mile high obstacle, they will press south and squeeze through the Drake Passage. Because of this geological situation, a curious weather exists: 3 days of gales are often followed by 45 days of windless weather. Likewise it is possible that it is a bit windy with 60 knots at Cape Horn, while at Puerto Toro at 25 miles distance there is no wind at all (or vice versa).
Around the Beagle Channel a mild maritime climate prevails. In summer average temperature during the day is 11 degrees C. Yearly precipitation is on average 75 mm. The channel never freezes in winter, and there are no icebergs (except in the immediate vicinity of glaciers). The Antarctic Peninsula is situated south of where the depressions rage through the Drake Passage and remains largely unaffected by their high winds. The winds are therefore gentle, often from the east. During summer one can expect to enjoy long periods of calm with lots of sunshine. The annual average precipitation is around 50 mm, whilst temperatures vary around 5 degrees C.
NAVIGATION
In the old days of sail, the windjammers had no choice but to round the cape, irrespective of the season or weather conditions. Due to the primitive navigation instruments, lack of precise charts and limited maneuverability of the vessels, it was impossible to safely seek the protection of the land against the high winds. It was therefore necessary to give the dangerous coast a wide berth, which meant the ships often had to spend extended periods of time out at sea. This of course increased again the chance of running into bad weather and encountering problems. All this is different nowadays. Modern satellite navigation and weather forecasts, daily radio contact with other ships and the Chilean Navy have greatly enhanced safety while navigating these waters.
For booking & info on expeditions or flights to:
Antarctica, South Georgia, Cape Horn, and Tierra Del Fuego"
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Since 1991 Exploring The "Uttermost Parts Of The Earth":
The Arctic, Antarctica and Cape Horn
Your Cruise Specialists at the "ends of the earth"
Phone/Fax (56)61-621092, Phone (56)61-621010,Box 70, Teniente Munoz 118, Puerto Williams,
Tierra Del Fuego, Chile 'The Gateway To Antarctica'
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email: sailing@victory-cruises.com
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