LORDS OF ANTARCTICA
Emperor Penguin Adventure
    19 November - 17 December 2004 – 29 Days
With the Islands of South Georgia and South Sandwich

aboard icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov

Few people have been fortunate and privileged enough to experience an Emperor Penguin colony. The largest of the penguins, Emperors are the only birds that breed on the frozen sea. During this extraordinary voyage we will visit their colonies on endless expanses of pack ice, surrounded by stunningly sculpted tabular icebergs.

Our visit is perfectly timed to coincide with large numbers of delightful penguin chicks huddling together on the ice – a dream come true. From our closest approach by ship, we walk over the ice to the colonies or, taking great care not to cause any disturbance, use the helicopter to land at a safe distance nearby.

But there is even more to this voyage than Emperor Penguins and, during the trip, we hope to experience some other extraordinary penguin colonies: Royal Penguins, King Penguins and Adélie Penguins among them. We expect to see several different Antarctic seal species, whales, a wide variety of other wildlife and some of the most spectacular scenery on Earth.

ITINERARY

NEW SEASON 2004-2005
Weddell Sea Adventure
In Search of the Emperor Penguin
Dates and Prices

19 November
Santiago, Chile
Today you meet your fellow adventurers in Santiago, busy capital of Chile. Overnight accommodations will be provided. Air arrangements are available upon request.

20 November
Stanley, Falkland Islands
This morning after breakfast fly* to Stanley, charming capital of the Falkland Islands. Embark the Kapitan Khlebnikov in the late afternoon and sail.

21-22 November
Scotia Sea
As we cruise these wildlife-rich waters, our expedition staff introduce the various species of birds and marine life that we will encounter on our voyage. Wandering, Black-browed, and Sooty Albatrosses, Shearwaters, Giant and Cape Petrels and numerous other seabirds accompany us towards the Antarctic Convergence, the biological barrier where cold polar waters sink beneath the warmer waters of the more temperate zones. Join our naturalists on deck and in the lecture room, where they introduce us to the islands of South Georgia and South Sandwich and the unique wildlife we hope to encounter. Classified as nature reserves and administered by the governor of the Falkland Islands, these islands serve as beacons for countless thousands of birds and mammals seeking appropriate breeding grounds. Permissions, weather and sea conditions will determine specific landing sites. You will also attend briefings on the proper use of Zodiacs and helicopters, and familiarise yourself with the guidelines of conduct for visitors to Antarctica.

23-24 November
South Georgia
Today during the morning we plan to arrive at South Georgia. First sighted by Captain James Cook in 1775, this scenically magnificent island attracts an astounding concentration of wildlife and is viewed by many as one of the most inspiring places on earth. Thousands of King Penguins greet us at Salisbury Plain, where rugged snow-covered mountains and glaciers provide a backdrop for this marvellous scene. Wandering Albatrosses nest at Prion Island, where luxurious tussock grass provides habitat for a variety of seabirds - and camouflage for breeding fur seals. Huge elephant seals and a substantial number of King and Gentoo Penguins crowd the beaches along the coast, while Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses nest in the cliffs behind. For all those who love the wilderness, South Georgia is a dream. But the island also played a significant role in the story of Shackleton’s epic journey after the sinking of his ship, the Endurance. It was here that he finally arrived after a harrowing voyage in a small boat from Elephant Island and over the never-before-climbed mountain range of South Georgia. We pay tribute to this great explorer and visit his grave at the old whaling station of Grytviken, once the centre of the whaling industry.

25-26 November
South Sandwich Islands
Over these days we navigate from north to south among the South Sandwich Islands, a group of active volcanoes located on the Scotia Arc. We plan an expedition stop at Saunders Island to explore the penguin rookeries, glaciers and rugged basaltic cliffs. Macaroni, Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins are abundant. Northernmost is spectacular Zavodovski Island, where millions of Chinstrap Penguins breed on the volcanic slopes - an absolutely staggering sight!

27-30 November
Pack Ice of the Weddell Sea
Continuing south into the Weddell Sea, we will meet the first broad band of dense pack ice. You experience firsthand the expert abilities and the power of the Kapitan Khlebnikov in polar, ice clad waters. You learn how the ship breaks and navigates through ice and keep watch for Weddell, leopard or crabeater seals on ice floes. Also, our naturalists will be on deck to help spot and identify seabirds and marine mammals that are indigenous to these waters. We hope to see orca and Minke whales along with a variety of seals. From high on the bridge we maintain a look out for the first groups of Emperor Penguins - and hope for sightings of the rare Ross seal. Our ship’s historian will begin recounting the history and heroic tales of the Weddell Sea region and Antarctica. Should conditions permit, you will board the helicopter for a thrilling view of the Kapitan Khlebnikov battling the pack ice and pressure ridges of this remote world. Much of the Weddell Sea remains permanently frozen. No other passenger vessel can dare to safely penetrate this great ocean. There will be special celebrations as we pass the Antarctic Circle, heading into Antarctica’s realm of 24-hour daylight.

1-6 December
Princess Martha Coast, Antarctica
The following days will be spent exploring this extremely remote region with one of the world’s most powerful icebreakers. Because of the nature of this polar expedition, flexibility with regard to the day-by-day schedule of activities is a must. The Captain and Expedition Leader will assess daily conditions and take full advantage of every opportunity to make landings with our helicopters, using the continuous daylight to maximise time ashore. Our program will emphasise on visits to one or two Emperor Penguin rookeries and the breathtaking scenery of ice shelves and mile-long tabular icebergs in this area. Weddell and crabeater seals will be abundant. We also hope to visit an Antarctic research station. Weather, sea and ice conditions will determine our exact itinerary. The following is a selection of possible landing sites:

Cape Norvegia
Views of the impressive Princess Martha Coast herald our arrival at Cape Norvegia, a sector of Antarctica claimed by Norway, Germany, South Africa and Great Britain maintain active research stations built directly on or beneath the ice in this region. Depending on conditions we hope to land directly atop the towering ice shelf. The scenery and the soft golden light in the early morning or late evening hours can be magical.

Atka Bay Emperor Penguin Rookery
Here we call at an Emperor Penguin rookery in the shelter of stunningly sculptured icebergs. We are fortunate to visit early in December, when large numbers of appealing chicks in different stages of development still huddle on the ice. Their hardworking parents trek miles over the pack to bring food to their fast growing young. The Emperor, largest of the penguins, is the only bird to breed on the frozen sea, an extraordinary feat of endurance accomplished during the dark, extremely cold winter months. From our closest approach by ship, we land by helicopter at a safe distance and walk over the ice to the rookeries. We take care not to disturb the penguins.
Depending on ice and weather conditions - which can be very challenging - we may also consider visiting the rookery at Riiser-Larsen Ice Shelf. Here again Emperor Penguins congregate in a stunning setting of deep blue icebergs. We marvel at the ‘highway’ created by the penguins as they toboggan on their bellies across the frozen ocean. At this time of year the chicks are still cloaked in down; by the end of the month they will have dispersed. A Weddell seal may unexpectedly pop his delightful round face through the sea ice in an attempt to keep his breathing hole open.

Neumayer Station
This remarkably modern and well-organized German station is actually built under the surface, beneath about 15 feet of ice. It consists of a series of tunnels with containers installed and fitted end to end. On the surface one can see only windmills for power and various satellite antennae, exhaust vents and radio masts. If conditions allow, and permission is granted, we plan to visit this interesting and remote research station.

7 December
Northbound
Leaving the continent behind, the Captain and Expedition Leader may search for a large ice floe suitable to moor along the ice edge for a unique party. If conditions are in our favour, we may even plan a barbecue on the ice.

8-11 December
Pack Ice of the Weddell Sea
Venturing through the dense ice pack of the Weddell Sea, we recount the epic voyage of the Endurance, Shackleton’s ship which was caught in the ice and drifted helplessly until it was crushed and sank in November 1915. Shackleton and his men finally reached Elephant Island and were eventually rescued. Continuing north along the ice edge our naturalists will again be on deck to help spot and identify seabirds and marine mammals.

12-14 December
Antarctic Peninsula & Elephant Island
Subject to conditions sometime today we plan to arrive at Paulet Island, a crater island carpeted with nesting Adélie Penguins, surrounding the remains of a primitive hut where in 1903 Captain Larsen and his men of the Nordenskjöld expedition sought refuge after their ship was crushed in the ice. Meanwhile Nordenskjöld himself was waiting for rescue on remote Snow Hill Island further to the south.
Approaching the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, we navigate the Antarctic Sound, often referred to as ‘iceberg alley’. Mile-long tabular icebergs drift north from the Antarctic continent and into the Sound.
Depending on our track through the ice, we also hope to approach Elephant Island, where Shackleton and his men sought refuge after their years in the ice.

15-16 December
Drake Passage
As we make our way back north to Ushuaia, our naturalists and lecturers review our adventures in the Weddell Sea and the sub-Antarctic Islands over the past weeks. From the deck of the Kapitan Khlebnikov, we watch seabirds trailing in our wake - Giant and Cape Petrels, Wandering and Black-browed Albatrosses and Shearwaters all may be seen. We keep a constant look out for the whales that frequent these nutrient-rich waters.

17 December
Ushuaia, Argentina
Today we bid farewell to the Kapitan Khlebnikov and transfer to our individual flights* back home.