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Expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, Cape
Horn, Falklands & Tierra Del Fuego Tierra Del Fuego Adventures USHUAIA, Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina - A MILESTONE ACHIEVEMENT OFF TIERRA DEL FUEGO Offshore Tierra del Fuego, in the southernmost part of Argentina, TOTAL engineers used extended reach technology for a well drilled from the North Hidra offshore platform. The length of its horizontal section - 6,253 meters ! - counts among the world's record achievements. On stream since the spring of 1996, this extended reach well serves to tap the offshore Ara field, located in waters 30 meters deep and 1,700 meters below the seabed. The additional production from Ara has helped to maintain profitable levels for the development of the Hidra field, whose reserves had already attained a production rate of 85%. For this well, the TOTAL teams drilled through 6,982 meters of rock - the full length of the well - in the record time of 51 days : a true '"cutting edge" achievement ! After an initial flow of 900 m3/day, production rapidly reached a steady 800 m3/day. By selling the oil produced, the 10 million dollars invested in this project could be recovered in four months Before TOTAL's milestone achievement, the longest directional wells in Tierra del Fuego had horizontal sections reaching no more than 2,700 meters. With a horizontal reach of 6,253 meters, the well drilled by TOTAL more than doubles that performance : a record for the American continent ! TECHNICAL CHALLENGES Drilling a conventional oil well essentially means boring a hole by using a rotating drill bit driven by a string of connected pipes. When drilling an extended reach well, the rotating driving force - travelling several kilometers - encounters considerable friction and drag. Reduced to a scale 1,000 times smaller, it would be like threading a hair 3 to 4 meters long into a tube a few tenths of a millimetre wide, and then trying to turn it ! To minimize friction, the drilling trajectory must be analyzed and executed with greatest care. The string is thus very slowly curved away from the vertical - less than 0.1deg. per meter - until it points away from the vertical at an 80 deg. angle. There is another major challenge : the rock cuttings produced while drilling. These cuttings are flushed out of the hole by pumping in viscous drilling mud. When drilling at a pace of 25 meters an hour, 5 tons of cuttings have to be brought up every hour - through a hole no more than 30 centimetres in diameter ! If the Channel tunnel had been drilled at the same speed, and considering that its 8-meter diameter is 25 times bigger, nearly 50 tons of cuttings would have had to be cleaned out - every minute ! Tierra del Fuego was first recorded in 1520 during the voyage of Ferdinand Magellan. Named for the fires (fuego) lit along the shore by native peoples, the foggy, inhospitable region was crossed again by voyages of the 17th and 18th centuries including those of Drake and Cook. Several different language groups living in the cold, foggy region of Tierra del Fuego included the Yahgans, the Ona, the Alacaluf, and to the north, the Tehuelche. While Magellan's chronicler Pigafetta had collected a vocabulary of Tehuelche words in 1520, little detailed information was known about the Fuegians prior to the early 19th century voyage of the British survey ship H.M.S. Beagle, which returned three Yahgans to their homeland from a visit to England. The crew of the Beagle included Charles Darwin, whose journal for Dec. 17, 1832 records the ship entering Le Maire Straight, then hugging the Fuegian shore with the rugged outline of Staten Island seen amid low clouds. Anchoring that afternoon in the Bay of Good Success, a group of Yahgans met with the captain. The scene, including an elder man and several youths wearing face and body paint, was described by Darwin as an amazing confrontation of different cultures. ![]() The Beagle Channel from Navarino Island looking West with the snow capped peaks of the Island of Tierra Del Fuego in the background Australian Pre-History. Patagonia: A Voyage to Tierra del Fuego Geographical Context: Patagonia is the southernmost region of South America, and includes bits of both Argentina and Chile. The Argentine part is mostly pampas, i.e., endless windswept plains largely populated by ranchers (gauchos). The Chilean part, in contrast, consists of a forested fjord/island region much like the coast of Norway. There is no road that traverses all of Chilean Patagonia, but there is a boat, the MV Tierra del Fuego, which transports passengers and trucks the length of the region, from Puerto Montt (in the Chilean heartland) to Puerto Natales, 200km north of the Straits of Magellan. The trip is supposed to take three days, but can take longer if the weather or tides are bad. Thursday: After leaving Aysen, I had made my way to Magallanes, the southernmost region of Chile, which includes the Straits of Magellan and the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego. Magallanes is the kind of place one can easily spend weeks in, and indeed I spent almost two weeks there, mostly hanging around Punta Arenas (the capital of the region, and full of very friendly people), Puerto Natales (a smaller town north of Punta Arenas, in a spectacular setting on the`Gulf of Last Hope' , and the Torres del Paine national park (just south of the Patagonian icecap, with fantastic views of glaciers and mountains). When I finally decided it was time to head back north, I knew, of course, that I would have to take the boat, so I could get a proper penguin's-eye view of Patagonia. Gondwana forests sanctuary campaign launched in chile In April 1998, forest activists and scientists from Chile, Argentina, New Zealand, Scotland and the U.S. met in Santiago and Pucon, Chile to launch thGondwana Forests Sanctuary Campaign, the goal of which is "to protect, reconnect and restore the life of Gondwana by creating an international sanctuary of Earth's southernmost forests." The forests of Gondwanaland are found in portions of South America, Australia and New Zealand. In South America, the forests occur in south-central Chile and on both sides of the Andes in Patagonia, from the 37th Parallel south to Tierra del Fuego. These regions contain the major Gondwanic genii and species: nothofagus (southern beech), alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides) and araucaria (Araucaria araucana). There are 8 nothofagus species found in Chile and Argentina - ruil, roble, rauli, lenga, hualo, coihue, magellanic coihue, and nirre. Gondwanic forests grow extensively on the South Island of New Zealand, and in small portions of the North Island. In Australia, Tasmania hosts the largest extent of Gondwanic forests, while significant remnants are found on the mainland in Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland. The islands of New Guinea, New Caledonia and New Britain also contain significant and diverse Gondwanic vegetation. Flourishing Forests Beneath the Southern Cross We had the chance to visit some of these incredible ancient forests while in Chile, and on a quick visit to Argentina. Herquehue National Park, in Chile's Lake District, shelters huge coihue trees, with immense spreading crowns draped with vines, moss and lichens. Higher in the park rise immense stands of araucaria. These bizarre trees give the entire landscape an incredibly ancient and exotic air. One would hardly be surprised to see the head of a diplodocus rising high in the forest canopy. Instead one sees swift flocks of parrot-like loros darting through the forest and hears the lyrical call of the chucao. Since it was southern fall, the lenga forest understory was blazing with oranges and vermillions. The Cani Sanctuary provides in a microcosm an example of how the ever more rare and precious southern forests can be conserved and restored. Due to be logged in 1990, the 500 hectares of the Cani were instead purchased with the assistance of Ancient Forests International, spurring the formation of Fundacion Lahuen. Lahuen, Chile's first NGO dedicated exclusively to forest protection and conservation, now administers the Cani and associated projects. These include a native tree nursery at Pichares (first in Chile), local education projects in which schoolchildren raise and plant native trees, and guided tours of the Cani. Our overnight hike in the Cani took us into immense groves of coihue again. Further on we reached the extinct volcanic caldera, heart of the Cani. While in Argentine Patagonia we made a day trip to Los Alerces National Park, which, thanks to the late season, was deserted. While we did not get to the famous but remote forests of Alerce - the southern version of the redwood - we were mesmermized by the beautiful string of clear lakes and rivers mirroring the green cypress forests and crimson lenga trees. Graceful arrayan trees lined the lakes and rivers, and edible berries were abundant. At Lago Menendez it was so quiet that the crunching of gravel underfoot seemed like sacrilege. A huge, glacier-draped peak rose far across the lake, and distant islands and peninsulas were black with forest. Far beyond the lake, over the Andes, directly west, is another huge protected area - the privately-owned Pumalin Park. Tierra del Fuego: A Beginning at the End of the Earth The first goal of the Gondwana Forest Sanctuary Campaign is to protect the primary forests of Tierra del Fuego, southernmost forests on Earth, in both Argentina and Chile. These sub-antarctic forests are threatened by the Rio Condor logging project initiated by the U.S. based Trillium Corp. Composed of 360,000 hectares of 10,000-year old lenga forest, this boreal forest region is highly fragile. The Gondwana Campaign has begun the process of creating an international system of inter-continental forest reserves starting at the tip of South America, in Tierra del Fuego, and spreading northward and outward. Tierra del Fuego will serve as the model for the Gondwana Campaign, which will prepare a comprehensive forest preservation and land use plan for this huge island. The plan's purpose is to guide communities away from large-scale industrial development projects like Rio Condor and other unsustainable economic and trade policies which promote export of unfinished resources. The campaign will also work toward an international environmental agreement within temperate forest countries to end logging and other industrial activities in primary forests. The Gondwana Campaign will also monitor the impacts on forests from economic and trade policies promoted by the World Trade Organization (WTO); Asian Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC); and the Free Trade of the Americas Summit. The Gondwana Forest Sanctuary Campaign will seek to influence these international economic bodies by offering an alternative, sustainable economic and ecological model. Efforts are also underway to create a "Trans-Andean Wildlands Complex", potentially one of the world's largest protected areas (5,000,000 has.), 1,000 miles to the North, spanning the provinces of Neuquin, Rio Negro and Chubut in Argentina and the Lake District, Valdivian and North Patagonian regions in Chile. Phil Knight - NFN Gondwana Project HUGE DAMAGE : Trillium paid US$5,000 per hectare Date: January, 17 2000 Source: Defensores del Bosque Chileno Ed note: This article gives a different environmental NGO's perspective on the controversial Savia (formerly Trillium) forestry project in Tierra del Fuego. Last month CHIPER published an article by CODEFF's which is by and large in support of the project. On the other hand, Defensores del Bosque, are adamantly against it. Commercial fraud No investment project will be blocked on environmental grounds Charges brought by citizens' organizations In spite of the fact that it still has not paid its debt to the state, and to all Chileans, the forestry company Savia, formerly Trillium, was authorized by the current government, through the National Environmental Commission, Conama, to start exploitation of native lenga forests in Tierra del Fuego. Its environmental impact study has been approved, the last approval necessary. Since then, the business announced the start of logging in 500 hectares of land approved for this year's season by the National Forestry Commission, Conaf. In all probability, this land is in the heart of the southern forest. The Chilean Code of Civil Law (art. 1889) states that "the vendor suffers commercial fraud when the price paid is less than half of the fair price of the goods sold." This is the Chilean Treasury's situation. In August 1991, it sold 71,085 hectares of land in Tierra del Fuego to the foreign investment company Cetec-Sel, for the sum of 133 million pesos (then worth some US$378,000). Five dollars a hectare. In 1993 the forestry company Trillium officially obtained the rights to this land, lot number six, in the heart of Tierra del Fuego, and became the legal owner of forests, plains, mountains and glaciers, which had previously belonged to the people of Chile, at a ridiculous price. Afterwards the Treasury informed the company of the possible existence of an irregularity in the sale, which would mean that the contract could be declared null and void, due to commercial fraud. If the Treasury had invoked this clause, the contract would have been reversed, and it would have been possible to reclaim the land. This would have avoided, at least within an area of 76,000 hectares, the industrial logging proposed in the Rio Condor project. However, according to an official document sighted by a notary in August 1995 -just before the expiration date for receipt of application of the clause of commercial fraud - the company agreed to hand over the fair price, by means of a "donation" of US$856,000. In the act, the company acknowledged that the price paid represented a grevious injury to the Chilean Treasury, and was less than half of the fair price. In the document it is stated that, "the US$856,000 are partial payment of the theoretical fair price" for lot number 6. And it continues, "...This donation will be paid, by means of money deposited into the public purse, and or by means of the completion of public works, infrastructure or construction, up to the value previously mentioned." The money, as well as the payment in kind were to be made for the exclusive benefit of the province of the XII Region of Chile. The government was pleased, and they pushed through the Trillium project despite being warned of the irreparable environmental damage it would cause. At the start of his term President Eduardo Frei declared that, "no investment project will be blocked on environmental grounds." His promise was kept in the case of Trillium project, when their second environmental impact study was accepted. It continues to be kept every day, in the case of the Central Raco, in the Alto Bio-Bio, even displacing the people in its path. And the promise will be kept again, with the start of the most disastrous forest project yet: Cascada Chile, which will devastate the Lakes District, Region X. The inhabitants of the forgotten town of Puerto Porvenir, where the "donation" was to be made, were ecstactic. Silvia Vera, the president of the Trillium fan club, and now the Savia Co. fan club, began to imagine eventual projects. The contract stated: "Forestal Trillium Ltd. will propose the various projects to be carried out to the Ministry of Public Works, in each case including their respective particulars, with details of their location, characteristics, public necessity, costs and date of completion." However, the time period in which the "donation" was to be made expired on Jan. 31, 1999. Savia-Trillium have not paid any money, and nor have they carried out any public works in Region XII. At the present time, government attorneys are taking the case before the Santiago Civil Court, seeking completion of payment. The company's director, Edmundo Fahrenkrog has stated in the newspaper La Pensa Austral that, "We're not denying the debt, but we're asking for an extension, because we haven't operated for five years. Five years of expenses, without any income at all, and a rescheduling of payment has been asked for." In the meantime, Savia-Trillium, under the auspices of Calafate, has acquired the wood chip mill Magallanica de Bosques, in Punta Arenas, Region XII. Even more serious is the plan to start felling, even though it has not paid its debt. It does not yet hold the full title to the land, at least in lot number six. It also has cases pending before the courts, to answer charges brought by citizens' organizations. Considering that this was a contract, its non-completion supports the case for the invocation of the clause of commercial fraud, given that the expiration date for this action was delayed by the same contract. The citizens' organizations, allied under the umbrella of the Alliance for the Chilean Forests, have brought these facts to the attention of Clara Szczaranski, the president of the government body in charge of present legal action against Savia-Trillium, so that her office might study the possibility of invocation of the clause, given that in such cases as these, there exists a ten year period during which appeals can be made. Trillium-Savia-Calafate's failure to fulfill the contract has reopened the possibility of recuperating 71,000 hectares of state land in the heart of Tierra del Fuego, for the good of all Chileans. Szczaranski promised to have the case studied by a legal team, for her office's later consideration. A decision in favor of the Alliance for the Chilean Forests could change the course of events. 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